Cooker Switches: 45A Double Pole Guide

What is a cooker switch?

A cooker switch is the local isolator for a fixed electric cooker, oven or hob. Because a cooker draws a high current, it sits on its own dedicated circuit from the consumer unit, and that circuit needs a means of switching it off close to the appliance. The cooker switch does that job. It lets you isolate the cooker for cleaning, repair or in an emergency without going back to the fuse board.

Most domestic cooker switches are rated 45A and are double pole, meaning they break both the live and neutral conductors when switched off. That full isolation is what makes them suitable for a high-load appliance, and it is why a standard 13A or 20A switch is not a substitute.

Why 45A and double pole?

A typical cooker circuit is protected by a 32A or 40A breaker and wired in 6mm² or larger cable, so the switch has to be rated to match. A 45A rating gives the headroom needed. Double pole (DP) switching isolates both poles of the supply, which is the safe way to disconnect fixed equipment. Many cooker switches also include a neon indicator that glows when the circuit is live, a useful visual check before anyone works on the appliance.

With socket or without? Cooker switch vs cooker control unit

You will see two closely related products. A plain cooker switch is just the 45A double-pole switch. A cooker control unit is the same switch with a 13A switched socket built into the same plate, handy for a kettle or other small kitchen appliance. The terms are often used loosely, so check the product description.

Type	What it is	Choose it when
45A cooker switch	Double-pole switch only	You only need to isolate the cooker
Cooker control unit (with socket)	45A switch plus a 13A socket	You want a worktop socket alongside
Cooker connection unit	Outlet plate where the cooker cable connects	Behind or below the appliance, paired with a switch

Where should a cooker switch go?

Good practice is to fit the switch where it is readily accessible but out of harm's way: to one side of the cooker and within easy reach, not on the wall directly above the hob where someone would have to reach across the hotplates to use it. It is commonly mounted within around two metres of the appliance. The exact position should follow BS 7671 (the IET Wiring Regulations) and the judgement of the installing electrician.

How to choose

Decide three things: whether you want a built-in 13A socket, the finish to match your other accessories (white moulded, brushed steel, polished chrome, black nickel or a screwless flat plate), and whether you want a neon indicator. The electrical rating stays the same at 45A double pole for a standard domestic cooker.

Frequently asked questions

What size switch do I need for a cooker?

A 45A double-pole switch is standard for a domestic electric cooker or hob. It matches the high-current dedicated circuit the cooker runs on.

What is the difference between a cooker switch and a cooker control unit?

A cooker switch is just the 45A double-pole switch. A cooker control unit is the same switch with a 13A socket built into the plate for a nearby appliance.

Why does a cooker switch need to be double pole?

Double pole switching breaks both the live and neutral, fully isolating the appliance. That is the safe way to disconnect a fixed high-load circuit before working on it.

Where should the cooker switch be fitted?

To one side of the cooker, readily accessible and easy to reach, not directly above the hob. It is commonly sited within about two metres of the appliance, subject to BS 7671 and the electrician's judgement.

Do I need an electrician to fit a cooker switch?

Yes. A cooker circuit is fixed high-current wiring, and the work is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. Use a registered electrician.